Guide · around Château du Boscau

Souillac

Souillac from the château (38 km)

Souillac is a small town on the Dordogne at the edge of the Périgord, about 38 km from Château du Boscau. You come here for the abbey church of Sainte-Marie with its striking domes, for the compact old centre with its half-timbered houses, and for Quercyland when the children are in the mood for a swim. On the way back towards the château, the Grottes de Lacave, with their stalactites and stalagmites, are easy to take in on the same trip.

Of all the places in this series of guides, Souillac is the furthest from the château. The town is less well known, but with over 3,000 inhabitants it has more amenities than anywhere else in the area: restaurants, shops and its own station on the Paris–Toulouse railway line.

It’s about three-quarters of an hour’s drive from the château, following the Dordogne downstream for most of the way. Along the way you pass Martel, another of the places in this series of area guides.

What you'll see

Souillac’s skyline is dominated by the abbey church of Sainte-Marie, built in the first half of the 12th century and completed around 1145. The domes above the choir are a rarity in the region, recalling those of Périgueux Cathedral on a smaller scale. Just inside the western entrance stand the surviving fragments of the original Romanesque sculpture, including a relief of the prophet Isaiah that is regarded as one of the finest pieces of Romanesque carving in the region.

The old centre around the abbey, with its half-timbered houses and narrow streets, is easy to find your way around and small enough to explore in an hour or two. From the bridge over the Dordogne you can see the abbey and the railway viaduct side by side: two very different styles of building. Souillac owes its nickname “town of the seven viaducts” to the Paris–Toulouse railway line, which bridges the valley around the town at several points; the Viaduc de la Borrèze, built in 1881–1885, has been a listed monument since 1984.

Walking, the market and the Dordogne

The “circuit des viaducs” is a walking route from the centre that takes in the railway bridges around Souillac, with views over the river. If you’d rather be on the water, you can go canoeing on the Dordogne at Souillac, or explore the valley by bike.

Every Friday morning there’s a market in the old centre, around the Halle and the Place Betz. If you’re staying in Gilles del Bosc or Louis IX, both with their own kitchen, it’s a good chance to stock up on fresh produce. Souillac is also known for vieille prune, a plum brandy you can sample at various places around town.

With children: Quercyland

Quercyland is an open-air pool complex on the edge of Souillac, with slides, a jacuzzi, and a playground with trampolines and a climbing course. The château itself doesn’t have a pool, so for an afternoon’s swimming with the children, Quercyland is a natural addition to a day out in Souillac.

The Grottes de Lacave (30 km)

Between Souillac and Rocamadour, on the way back to the château, lie the Grottes de Lacave: stalactite caves discovered by chance in 1905 by the biologist and cave explorer Armand Viré. He was digging a tunnel from the Grotte de Jouclas in search of the Igue de Saint-Sol, and stumbled upon these caves instead. They have been open to visitors since 1906.

Since 1961, part of the visit has been made by small electric train, which takes you 400 metres into the hillside. Inside it’s a constant 14°C all year round; the passages extend for some 1,500 metres in all, with the “Salle des Merveilles” as the highlight: a chamber of around 2,000 square metres with formations that glow under UV light. While the route was being built, researchers also found traces from the Solutrean and Magdalenian, two prehistoric periods of the last Ice Age.

When to go

July is Souillac’s busiest month: that’s when the annual jazz festival takes place, and the Friday market is packed. Outside the high season the centre is quieter, and as the temperature in the Grottes de Lacave stays the same all year round, they make a good visit whatever the season.

Combine with

Souillac and the Grottes de Lacave combine well with Martel, 25 km from the château and the subject of another of our area guides, which includes a section on Gluges. Rocamadour is also close to the Grottes de Lacave, and the obvious next stop while you’re in the area.

Rather have a quiet day without a long drive? Then take a look at the other places on our area page.

Where to stay near Souillac

Souillac is about 38 km from Château du Boscau, around 45 minutes’ drive. Choose one of the three stays as your base: Gilles del Bosc is the self-catering apartment for 4 where pets are welcome, Louis IX the self-catering apartment for 2 with a south-facing terrace, and Jean Mouliérat the B&B room for 2 with its own bathroom.

If you arrange it at least a day in advance, you can join our table d’hôtes.

Tip from Ester and Bob:

In Souillac, Le Beffroi on the Place Saint-Martin is a good choice for regional dishes made with fresh, local produce.

Souillac suits every stay

Pick one of the stays as your base, and make Souillac and the Grottes de Lacave part of your time in the Lot.